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Julian Peterson
Julian Peterson


Funny to see that a lot of the improvements that you mentioned on the 124019 are also on the 144001 that i ordered on 11-11-20.The wheelnutsThe thermalpasteThe springsAnd i also cant see any difference between the diff above and mine form the 144001 ?!?



First time RC owner. I read a lot of reviews about the 124019 Wltoys buggy and decided what the heck, sounds like a good car to start with. After unboxing the car, I noticed the front wheels had a lot of play in them and the alignment was off. Is this normal? I have not driven the car yet as a lot of reviews i read mentioned doing some essential things before driving it. its like someone dared a co-worker to put it together blindfolded.?

Hey ShawnYeah they are an excellent car for the money aren't they? There are niggles with the 144001 but in the scheme of things they are relatively minor. Yes the LC racing 1/14 range are fantastic, I have nothing but good things to say about them. Making a 144001 and 124019 brushless is a lot more rewarding than it should be but they will never be as good as their LC racing equivalent. Have fun racing, I wish they raced 1/14 near me or probably more relevantly, I wish I had more time to race!

Hello,Thanks for your great website and interesting articles!I have just received my WlToys 124019, and it's a great R/C car!But compared to you, I have plastic hex adaptors on mine (but do have flanged lock nuts).Also, I have dismantled the diffs to clean them and add quality grease: the front one was perfectly shimed like yours. But the one in the back had two shims on two opposite planet gears and no shims on the two others (I fixed that problem).Regarding the shocks: the front ones seems OK. The rear ones aren't overfilled, but the oil doesn't seem heavy enough. I've ordered 800cst oil and hope it'll be better.Olivier

I have the 124019 too and mine had plastic hex adaptors as well.I don't even think you can buy the solid aluminum hex adaptor separately (like the one pictured in this article). I tried searching for them.

Hello, I Own a 3 weeks 144001 and 1 week 124019.I found the following differences:Thermal paste on motor in the 124019Shocks oil level perfect on the 124019Diffs grease in my case better on the 144001My 124019 battery its not the Wltoys its says " no brand" maybe cause of my Aliexpress seller.ESC on the 144001 is on only with short button pulsation , long required in the 124019ESC and motor in the 144001 yes, it's hotter.That's all!

Received my 124019 yesterday, around 4 months after i received a 144001. comparing the two, no one seems to mention that that the 124019 is actually about 10-15mm wider through the middle, mainly due to the plastic side bits. helps when looking at esc dimensions. the diff housings on the 124019 have ribbing on top of them too, which is pretty obvious, but not sure of the benefit (have people broken shock towers off the diff housings?). my 124019 did not come with the metal hexes, but i was not worried as i had lc racing alu hexes to put on it. shocks definitely felt much better than the 144001's, didn't even bother opening them up to check oil levels. diffs had a stripe of white grease around them, and probably had a little more grease inside them (vs the 144001's), but probably still a good idea opening up to add more grease before running.

Hello, my 124019 also didnt come with aluminium hexes and shocks are far worse than on my 144001. Both front ones started to leak after 1 run from bottom side. Also diffs started to make funny noises. My 144001 seems to be much better car so far.

I just got my first RC car since i was 12, this last Christmas, a rebadged/remodelled but essentially an HBX 16889 which I love.I've just bought the isdt 608AC in your recommendation, which arrived today with my new WL Toys 124019. The charger is amazing and lives up to expectations. The 124019 however, does not. It seems so poorly made and assembled comared to my 16889. Everything is loose and wobbly and consequently it has a hard time staying in a straight line. None of the shocks have any fluid in them so its bouncing everywhere. It seems like really bad bucket of bolts compared to my 16889. I bought it as it seemed like a good platform to start on but to be honest I'm wondering if I have made a mistake and should have sprung for something that is actually RTR. Or is this normal for WL Toys? Do I just have to give it a complete overhaul before its driveable? Is this why experienced RC hobbyists scoff at these cars?I guess i'm just looking for some reassurance that after I give it a complete overhaul it will be as good as it reviews on here?Cheers!

Hey Quad, I was looking back, and remembered this article. I was just trying to shim my 144001, I have one of the rear wheels off, and am looking for some suitable shims in a loose container of them that we have in our garage. My 144001 has flanged wheels nuts (the wheels nuts have an extra little "ring" or flange around the nut at the bottom, like shone in your pics).I got my 144001 in early January of 2020, a good long while before the 124019/8s, interesting! The diffs on my 144001 were not greased that much, they had a light coating, so earlier this year, I took the plunge and packed them with grease. The diffs are now starting to loosen up a little after a few months of use, and small amounts of grease have been coming out of the diff outdrive cup holes in the diff housings, so I assume some grease has worked its way out of the diff. I don't think my diffs had shims though.Anyway, I'm getting off topic, I just thought it was interesting that my earlier 144001 had flanged wheel nuts. I can't remember, but I'm gonna guess that the shocks were overfilled, thus why the O-rings are leaky (I replaced the fronts with LC-Racing O-rings), there was no thermal paste on the motor, and definitely no aluminum hexes!So I have 2 questions:1) When I shim my 144001 (if I can find 4, identical shims that work), should I have the shims on the "outside" of the bearing, the side nearest to the wheel, or the "inner" side, the side closest to the diff outdrive cups? Or should I take out the wheel bearing, plop the shim into the hub carrier/knuckle, and put the bearing back into the hub carrier/knuckle, on top of the shim? Which location will give me the least amount of friction and wear? I hope this makes sense!2) Can I put a shim/washer behind the flanged wheel nut (so basically sandwich the shim/washer between the wheel nut and the rim of the wheel), so the shim/washer will spread the force out even more, acting like an extension of the flange on the wheel nut? The said shim/washer will of course be metal.Thanks in advance Quad!

Create citation alert 1748-9326/10/12/124019 Abstract Brazil plans to meet the majority of its growing electricity demand with new hydropower plants located in the Amazon basin. However, large hydropower plants located in tropical forested regions may lead to significant carbon dioxide and methane emission. Currently, no predictive models exist to estimate the greenhouse gas emissions before the reservoir is built. This paper presents two different approaches to investigate the future carbon balance of eighteen new reservoirs in the Amazon. The first approach is based on a degradation model of flooded carbon stock, while the second approach is based on flux data measured in Amazonian rivers and reservoirs. The models rely on a Monte Carlo simulation framework to represent the balance of the greenhouse gases into the atmosphere that results when land and river are converted into a reservoir. Further, we investigate the role of the residence time/stratification in the carbon emissions estimate. Our results imply that two factors contribute to reducing overall emissions from these reservoirs: high energy densities reservoirs, i.e., the ratio between the installed capacity and flooded area, and vegetation clearing. While the models' uncertainties are high, we show that a robust treatment of uncertainty can effectively indicate whether a reservoir in the Amazon will result in larger greenhouse gas emissions when compared to other electricity sources.

I upgraded to a brushless motor and new ESC on my Wltoys 124019 buggy and found the stock body has limited room for the larger sized motor, ESC and separate RX. So i designed and 3d printed these side chassis extensions! They are held on where the plastic side pieces were and even uses the same mounting screws! I also run a much larger size battery in this car and incorporated a battery tray. I enlarged one of the holes already in the bottom chassis and use a zip tie to secure my battery in place. The ESC is also held in place with a zip tie but i've included a hole for the zip tie to connect to. Everything is very secure. The battery i use is the DXF hard case 2S which provides a long run time between charges. I also designed new body mounts and run a stock Traxxas Stampede body which fits perfect with these new side extensions. I have included these body mounts with these files for your convenience.

Fits for WLTOYS 144001 124018 124019 rc car spare parts set.The wider tires lower the center of gravity when racing and improve the performance of the car. Suitable for all toughest terrain.Made of high-quality rubber and metal, which can providing excellent shock resistanceEasy to install, including 4pcs 12mm wheel hub adapter and 4pcs metal latch.Replace the old damaged wheels, is a good substituteperfect matching model, replacement parts. 041b061a72